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Sabry’s is Egyptian, like most of its neighbors on Astoria’s Cairo corridor, but it feels more like a seafood shack on the coast of Maine—or maybe City Island. Of course, you’re not going to get super-puffy pita right out of the oven at Johnny’s Reef, never mind the all-important dish of dill-flecked tahini to dip it in. The fish is fresh and the portions generous—all grilled, fried, or baked entrées come with an herb-dappled iceberg-lettuce salad and rice pilaf or fries, which will invariably find their way into that addictive tahini, too. Sabry’s tajines are tomato-based, oven-baked stews of calamari or shrimp, and are recommended, as is his whole striped bass seasoned with lemon and cumin, the spice-rack secret to Sabry’s success. Leave the booze at home: The Muslim management forbids it. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Oven-baked calamari or shrimp stew, $14; whole striped bass with lemon and cumin, $18.95