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Cheapness is relative—never more so, perhaps, than when talking about sushi. It’s true that if so inclined, a couple could drop a C-note on an omakase dinner at this Jewel Bako spinoff. Formerly Blue Goose Café, it’s now dedicated to playing to its owners’ strengths, at a decided and welcome discount. Maki rolls make it easy to resist that temptation, as do a bowl of white-miso soup, graced with a feather-light quenelle of wild striped bass; a trio of delectable tartares, scooped up with lotus-root chips; and a blushing pink king salmon en papillote with briny sea-urchin sauce. Daily specials like medium fatty tuna are a splurge within reason, especially figuring in the cosseting service, elegant tableware, andfabulously fresh fish. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Tasting Menu: Six courses, $75

The Japanese “salade Niçoise” is a crossover hit, with bigeye tuna sashimi slices, heaps of wakame and hijiki seaweed, and soft-cooked quail eggs and daikon.

White-miso soup, $4; tartare trio with quenelle of wild striped bass, $8; king salmon en papillote with sea-urchin sauce, $9/$18