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Bare-bones and fluorescent-lit, this place looks like a hundred other storefront steam-table soul-food joints. But something extraordinary must be going on back in the kitchen. "Supersavory" chicken and dumplings tread a delicious murky brown gravy. Moist meat loaf is slicked with an eerie but tasty candy-apple-red glaze. Nicely seasoned collards actually show signs of life—a refreshing departure from the norm—while sweet, juicy yams pack a cinnamon-sugar punch. And habit-forming coconut cake is worth remaining fully clothed at the beach this summer. No wonder that even late at night, there’s a steady stream of customers filing in to ponder their two generous sides. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld