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Don't let the gangly young models and their scruffy escorts deter you. Even these diet-dazed divas can't resist what emerges from chef Michael Huynh's Vietnamese kitchen: Exceedingly fresh, Hulk-size summer rolls. Plump chicken wings that come with a Scotch-bonnet dipping sauce that elicits a warning from the waiter. And grilled short ribs skewered onto lemongrass stalks—a highbrow steak-on-a-stick that may make you wonder whether Jean-Georges has a moonlighting gig. Fusiony entrées creep past the $20 barrier, but the noodle and "traditional style" portions of the menu fall well beneath the mark (try the sputtering ironpot chicken). And save room for sublime desserts like black-sticky-rice pudding, just like the models do. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

 

Recommended Dishes

Summer rolls, $7; grilled short ribs on lemongrass skewers, $12; steamed black rice pudding, $6

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