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While happily not living up to its name, which means “chaos,” Baraonda’s lively take on Northern Italian cuisine is an integral part of owner Enrico Proietti’s Upper East Side troika, along with Per Lei and Bella Blu. Here, the dining room’s orange walls are hung with riotously colorful portraits by artist Valentino Cortázar; orange-upholstered banquettes, wooden chairs, and small white-draped tables are set off by recessed ceiling lights topped with colored parchment cones. The kitchen, led by chef Giuseppe Mazzeo, adeptly balances refinement and robustness. Pleasingly rich Roman-style artichokes are marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, and rosemary, and then sautéed and lightly charbroiled. Homemade pastas are first-rate. Pinci, a thick spaghetti, with a wild-boar ragù, carries the forest to the plate, with tangy juniper berries. Grilled Chilean sea bass with an orange-infused broth is moist and velvety, tasty fuel for smart diners’ wee-hours dancing. — Michael Anstendig

Every Sunday and Wednesday at the stroke of midnight, Baraonda transforms itself into a dance lounge, with D.J.'s spinning international and disco tunes.

Carcofi alla romana, $15; pinci con ragù di cinghiale al ginepro e cacao, $19; filetto di branzino cileno, indivia brasata, brodetto al arancia, $27