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In the land of giant Japanese restaurants—the sleek, subterranean Matsuri is one block east, the impending Morimoto around the corner—the diminutive Naka Naka has quietly opened. Not that anyone would know: The 24-person spot hides behind a signless, curtained façade. But once inside, the welcome is warm and the spirit generous. The chef serves all the expected sushi and sashimi but seems to take special pleasure in the daily-changing assortment of appetizers like sesame-dressed greens, simmered duck breast, and various hijiki and daikon preparations, delivered in bento boxes by traditionally clad waitresses. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Reservations for up to 4 people accepted.