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Bond 45's dark-stained paneled room, with its aged tile and diffuse Deco-ish chandeliers designed by Tony Award winner John Lee Beatty strains to look as if it has been around since the days of Fiorello La Guardia. But so what—the place treats you like family while executing home-style cooking at least as solid as mom’s. Not only are the cheeses distinctive and, just as promised, “unexpectedly refreshing,” but they’re surrounded by roasted peppers, fava beans, and prosciutto. From a list of pastas priced and portioned to allow middle courses without gluttony, we favored an expert cacio e pepe, al dente spaghetti confidently topped by only grated pecorino and black pepper, and, happily, the Bolognese. Bond 45 touts a focaccia-based version of pizza called pantondo for a steep price. Better to shell out less for the large, garlic-showered scampi, or the chicken brightly seasoned with lemon and fennel. Better still, go ahead and pay more for the sizable fish of the day. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Mozzarella bar misto $36; veal chop parmigiana, $4

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Hal Rubenstein's Full Review (4/11/05)