Imitation of Christ
The Label
When Imitation of Christ was founded in 2000 by design partners Matt Damhave and Tara Subkoff, the idea of reselling vintage clothes was audacious and subversive—especially with four-digit price tags. Now it’s an established business model (see Libertine). But over the years, and since the departure of Damhave, Subkoff has shown herself to be an intelligent and thoughtful designer who’s usually a couple of years ahead of the next trend. Although the line once focused on feminine, soft, retro-inspired pieces (Subkoff dropped the vintage stuff a few years into her business), lately she’s shown all-denim or all-jersey collections that presage a change in style. Always surprising, Subkoff also has a deal with the rather fusty footwear line Easy Spirit, for whom she’s designed an extremely successful line of shoes and boots.
The Look
Simultaneously avant-garde and retro, IoC changes its look according to Subkoff’s interests. One season, it’s jersey dresses; the next, it’s tight, dark denim jeans.
The Designer
Imitation of Christ launched with great fanfare in June 2000 when former art students Damhave and Subkoff presented their first show in an East Village funeral parlor. They designed four collections together, often infuriating editors with their theatrical, political shows (one season, they demanded money from guests and donated it to charities), while simultaneously intriguing them with beautiful clothes. For a time, Chloë Sevigny was the line’s creative director. Damhave and Subkoff had an acrimonious split in 2001. Subkoff, who dropped out of Parsons, continues to design the line while working as an actress (she’s appeared in many films, including The Notorious Bettie Page, When the Bough Breaks, and American Pie).
